New Balance 990

Crafted from premium suede and mesh , these shoes offer style and function—breathability, durability, and comfort. Newer versions gain FuelCell cushioning for even more comfort—perfect for everyday wear or retro styling.

This combination of comfort , history, celebrity associations, and fashion appeal has earned the New Balance 990 its cult status . Subtle updates over the years have kept it fresh while drawing on the emotional appeal of nostalgia . As a result, it remains a trusted streetwear staple , spanning generations in both form and function.

The history of the NB 990 model

The New Balance 990's history begins in 1982 with the release of the original model, now known as the 990v1. This milestone in sneaker history was the first running shoe to retail for $100 , setting a new standard for both performance and price. This high price was justified by the use of premium materials and modern performance technology , including improved cushioning and stability that were ahead of their time.

The 990 was part of New Balance's broader 99X series , a line dedicated to combining innovation with functional design. The original model introduced a motion control device (MCD) that improved stability—a feature that became fundamental in all subsequent versions.

With its focus on support, durability, and comfort, the 990 quickly gained popularity among serious runners of the 1980s. Unlike brands that release annual updates, New Balance took a deliberate approach – only releasing new versions when significant advances in footwear technology were achieved.

Each iteration retained the core identity of the original while introducing improvements such as:

• A more refined cut
• Improved cushioning systems
• Increased quality of materials

This evolutionary philosophy has created what many call a strong “sneaker bloodline,” with each version paying homage to its predecessor while pushing performance forward.

The New Balance 990 has remained relevant for decades thanks to its consistent quality, timeless design, and cultural influence. From its groundbreaking debut in 1982 to influencing modern sneaker trends, it remains an enduring symbol of innovation and craftsmanship in athletic footwear.

Evolution of line 990

The New Balance 990 timeline showcases careful and consistent improvements in design, comfort, and performance. Unlike many sneaker lines that update annually, the 990 series only changes when significant improvements are made. Here's a look at the key sneaker releases in this renowned series, showing how each model number helped shape the series' evolution .

990v1: pioneer model (1982)

Released in 1982 , the New Balance 990v1 changed the athletic footwear market by becoming the first performance running shoe to retail for $100 . This bold move highlighted the shoe's high quality and advanced features, making it a top choice for serious runners.

The 990v1 was designed to offer excellent support and stability. One of its key innovations was a patented motion control device that helped guide foot movement and reduce overpronation. This feature was especially important for athletes who wanted to prevent injuries and run more efficiently.

The shoe's premium construction utilized premium materials and meticulous craftsmanship, setting a new standard for comfort and durability in running shoes. Its design also introduced the aesthetic and performance focus that would shape the rest of the 990 series, combining athletic functionality with everyday style.

As the first model in the line, the 990v1 paved the way for years of innovation and cultural influence. Its release marked both a technical breakthrough and a moment when sneakers began to meet higher consumer expectations, going beyond mere athletic performance.

990v2: First Updates and Innovations (1998)

Released in 1998 , the New Balance 990v2 marked a major evolution for the iconic 990 series. This version introduced significant design updates and technological improvements that elevated both performance and aesthetics. Compared to its predecessor, the 990v2 featured a more streamlined silhouette , reflecting the sleeker, modern design trends of the late '90s.

A distinctive innovation was the introduction of ABZORB cushioning technology in both the heel and forefoot areas. This advanced foam system improved shock absorption , offering increased comfort and reduced impact on joints for runners and everyday users. The ABZORB material effectively dispersed energy, helping to minimize joint stress and providing a smoother stride.

This model also saw subtle but significant branding changes:

• The iconic “N” logo has been reduced in size, contributing to a cleaner, more minimalist aesthetic.
• This design change influenced subsequent models in the 99X series in the early 2000s.

The 990v2 successfully combined functional upgrades with refined style, reinforcing New Balance's commitment to innovation while paying homage to its heritage. These updates not only improved performance but also helped shape the future direction of one of New Balance's most enduring sneaker lines.

990v3: Aesthetic Evolution (2012)

Released in 2012 to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the original 990, the New Balance 990v3 marked a bold shift in design. It helped shape the modern "dad shoe" style, moving away from the sleeker look of earlier models. Instead, it adopted a chunkier and more detailed design that fit well with the growing retro fashion trends.

The 990v3's aesthetic evolution was rooted in both function and fashion. One of the most noticeable updates was a redesigned upper that featured:

• A more intricate mix of suede overlays and mesh underlays adds visual depth while enhancing structure and durability.
• A breathable mesh base improves airflow for greater comfort during extended wear – a key factor as sneakers became an everyday wardrobe staple, extending beyond their athletic use.

The midsole also reflected this blend of performance and lifestyle appeal. It became noticeably chunkier , giving the shoe a more substantial silhouette that resonated with the streetwear aesthetic of the early 2010s. A key innovation was the inclusion of a carbon fiber insert in the midfoot area—an advanced feature that improved stability without adding weight, reinforcing New Balance's commitment to technical excellence.

This version retained signature elements like reflective accents and premium materials, but introduced them with a modern twist. The result was a sneaker that paid homage to its heritage while embracing contemporary tastes—a balance that made it an icon in sneaker culture.

The launch of the NB 990v3 signaled New Balance's deeper entry into lifestyle markets, fusing athletic functionality with urban style. Its design philosophy—rooted in quality craftsmanship, subtle branding, and a subdued cool—continues to influence sneaker trends.

990v4: Design Improvements (2016)

Released in 2016 , the New Balance 990v4 marked a significant step forward for the series, refining the popular design of the previous model. Staying true to its heritage , it retained the chunky shape and premium materials that fans loved while adding small but effective updates that improved both style and performance.

One of the main improvements was a slimmer upper, giving the shoe a cleaner, more modern look without losing its classic character. The side panel also featured a larger, redesigned "N" logo , making it stand out more in both casual and sporty styles.

The 990v4 also offered improved breathability . With more open mesh areas in the upper, it allowed for increased airflow. This made the shoe more comfortable for extended wear—ideal for everyday use or long walks around town.

Even with these changes in design and technology, the 990v4 remained true to the series' focus on comfort and quality . It continued to utilize ENCAP midsole technology, which combines a soft EVA core with a durable polyurethane surround. This blend provides strong support and excellent shock absorption, earning praise from longtime fans and newcomers alike.

The launch of the 990v4 demonstrated New Balance's commitment to carefully refining its flagship sneaker. Rather than following trends, the brand introduced thoughtful updates that respected its roots while giving the shoe a fresh feel. This helped make the v4 a favorite not only in sports but also in streetwear and casual fashion.

The NB 990v4's significance in sneaker culture lies in its ability to bridge generations. Originally designed as a premium running shoe, it evolved into an icon embraced by athletes, fashion enthusiasts, and everyday wearers alike. Its blend of historic style and modern comfort has cemented it as one of New Balance's most enduring models—continuing a legacy that began with the original 990 in 1982.

990v5: Modern Features (2019)

Released in 2019 , the New Balance 990v5 introduced a number of modern updates that refreshed the design while maintaining its classic style. One key feature was a TPU strap on the side panel, which improved stability by adding structure without sacrificing flexibility.

The upper has also been redesigned for simplicity. With the removal of additional overlays and a sleeker shape, the 990v5 has a cleaner, more modern look. This change not only updates its appearance but also makes it lighter and more comfortable.

Another major improvement was the new Ortholite sockliner . Known for its excellent cushioning and moisture management, this sockliner provided immediate and long-term comfort. It worked well with the existing ENCAP midsole, providing both support and cushioning.

Together, these updates gave the 990v5 a refined design that paid homage to its heritage while meeting modern lifestyle needs. The result was a sneaker built for performance and everyday style.

990v6: Latest Iteration (2022)

Released in late 2022 , the New Balance 990v6 represents a major update to the iconic 990 series. As the latest version , it combines classic style with modern features to meet the needs of today's wearers.

The 990v6 introduces several significant design updates . One key change is the removal of the midfoot saddle, resulting in a cleaner, more streamlined silhouette. This not only improves its visual appeal but also contributes to a lighter and more flexible fit.

A distinctive feature of this model is the inclusion of FuelCell foam in the midsole. This advanced cushioning technology provides:

• A more comfortable and responsive stride
• Increased energy return for improved performance
• Smooth support suitable for both everyday wear and sports activities

The 990v6 continues this tradition, integrating modern materials and design sensibilities while paying homage to its heritage. It reflects New Balance's ongoing commitment to craftsmanship, comfort, and evolving consumer needs—making it both a nod to the past and a step into the future.

Popular New Balance 990 Colorways

The New Balance 990 is known for its timeless style and practical design. Its wide range of popular colorways appeals to both casual wearers and sneaker enthusiasts. While sneaker collaborations are often characterized by bold, eye-catching designs, it's the widely available colorways—especially the minimalist and classic ones—that have cemented the 990's place in sneaker culture .

Thanks to its classic silhouette , the 990 pairs well with both neutral and bold colors. Each version—from v1 to v6—has introduced new color options that reflect evolving fashion trends while remaining true to the brand's roots.

Popular colorways of the New Balance 990 :

• Gray: The most iconic and enduring colorway, gray has become synonymous with New Balance. It offers a clean, understated look that complements almost any style.
• Navy: A staple alternative to grey, navy provides a slightly more elegant, yet versatile option that retains the classic charm of the shoe.
• Black and white: This clean, simple combination is a favorite among minimalist streetwear fans thanks to its versatility.
• Burgundy/Wine Shades: Often released in the fall, these rich reds bring warmth to the 990 look and complement seasonal styles.
• Olive/Army Green: Popular in urban fashion, this earthy shade adds a rugged feel and pairs easily with neutral outfits.
• Steel Blue: A cool alternative to classic gray, this shade is subtle yet bold – especially appreciated by longtime fans.
• Muted Pastels: Used in some limited or regional releases, soft pinks, light blues, and mint greens add a softer look to the usually solid 990 design.

The evolution of these colorways reflects New Balance's blend of fresh ideas with heritage. While high-profile collaborations may grab headlines, it's the consistent innovation within mainstream styles that has kept the 990 relevant across generations of sneaker enthusiasts.

Important collaborations on the NB 990 models

JJJJound Olive: A Unique Collaboration

The JJJJound Olive version of the New Balance 990v3 is a special collaboration that combines simple design with premium materials. Led by JJJJound founder Justin Saunders, the project showcases the brand's minimalist style , bringing a fresh take to this classic sneaker.

This limited edition is characterized by:

• Olive mesh uppers
• Soft suede overlays
• Traditional ENCAP midsole cushioning
• Tonal laces and minimal branding

A muted green palette paired with neutral accents creates a clean and understated aesthetic. The focus on premium materials and subtle details reflects JJJJound's refined approach to design, making this piece stand out without being overbearing.

WTAPS Edition: Streetwear Influence

The collaboration between New Balance and Japanese streetwear brand WTAPS on the 990v2 model combines classic footwear with modern urban style. WTAPS, known for its military-inspired and utilitarian style , has given the 990 series a unique look that reinforces its place in global streetwear culture .

The WTAPS edition of the New Balance 990v2 features a subdued, tactical design. It utilizes shades of gray and olive , reflecting military motifs that align with the WTAPS identity. These colors aren't just for style; they emphasize a focus on functionality and purposeful design. This combination offers both ruggedness and comfort, making it suitable for everyday wear while maintaining a high fashion appeal.

The WTAPS x New Balance 990v2 is more than just a sneaker—it's a cultural statement. Blending American sneaker heritage with the minimalist ethos of Tokyo streetwear, this release appeals to collectors and fashion-conscious consumers seeking understated yet impactful pieces. Its subtle color palette aligns with Japanese aesthetics, favoring tonal harmony over bold branding.

Levi's Denim: A Mix of Styles

Levi's has long been a symbol of American style, blending heritage with evolving fashion trends. Known for its durability and iconic design, Levi's has influenced generations of style—from rugged workwear to streetwear.

Originally designed as durable miner's trousers in the late 19th century, Levi's jeans quickly became a staple in the American wardrobe. Over time, the brand has expanded its offerings to include a variety of cuts and finishes that reflect evolving cultural tastes. From the classic 501® Original Fit to modern skinny and relaxed styles, Levi's continues to adapt while remaining true to its roots.

What sets Levi's denim apart is its attention to detail:

• Selvedge Denim: A premium fabric woven on traditional shuttle looms, offering durability and a clean edge.
• Distinctive stitching: The arc-shaped pattern on the back pockets is instantly recognizable.
• Copper Rivets: Reinforced stress points for added strength – an innovation dating back to the brand's origins.

The brand also blends influences from different eras and subcultures. In the 1950s, Levi's became synonymous with youth rebellion; in the 1970s and 1980s, it was worn by rockers and skaters; today, it's worn by everyone from fashion-conscious influencers to everyday people seeking timeless appeal.

This blend of history, craftsmanship and cultural significance makes Levi's denim more than just clothing – it represents an evolving identity that blends tradition with contemporary style.

MiUSA Teddy Santis Macadamia Nut: Premium Materials

The MiUSA Teddy Santis Macadamia Nut edition of the New Balance 990 highlights the brand's focus on high-quality craftsmanship and materials. Part of the Made in USA line, led by creative director Teddy Santis, this version—based on the 990v3 silhouette—carefully blends style and function.

This model stands out for its use of premium materials . The upper combines:

• Soft Pigskin Suede : Offers luxurious texture and long-lasting durability.
• Breathable Mesh: Improves airflow to keep feet cool during extended wear.

The midsole features ENCAP cushioning technology, combining lightweight foam with a durable polyurethane surround for superior support and comfort—perfect for all-day wear. The outsole utilizes durable rubber for excellent traction and longevity.

The Macadamia Nut colorway features a refined palette . Its creamy off-white tones create a clean, natural look that sets it apart from standard gray or navy options. This neutral shade makes it easy to pair with both casual and more elegant outfits.

Craftsmanship is a central element of this release. Each pair is assembled in the USA using both domestic and imported materials, ensuring strict quality control. The attention to detail—from precise stitching to material selection—reflects New Balance's heritage of excellence in footwear.