The latest entry is a proposition for purists. For those who appreciate classic design, exquisite finishing, and timelessness, but expect more than standard models. Japanese avant-garde meets the Boston king of suede in a design perfected to its limits.
Junya Watanabe and the Comme des Garçons empire
To understand this collaboration, one must appreciate Junya Watanabe's work. As one of the main designers of the vast Comme des Garçons empire (founded by visionary Rei Kawakubo), Watanabe heads the men's line, CDG HOMME. He is a creator who, like no other, can reinterpret classic workwear, flannels, suits, or gorpcore, giving them a unique, patchwork, and exceptionally elegant character. His footwear collaborations are never flashy – they rely on subtle, perfect changes in palette and materials.
New Balance and the "Dad Shoe" culture
New Balance built its identity on the opposite of its competitors. Instead of paying huge contracts to basketball players in the 80s, they sold grey, high-quality running shoes to affluent adults ("Endorsed by No One"). Their silhouettes eventually became a symbol of the "Dad Shoe" (the American dad's shoe for relaxing in the suburbs). Today, ironically, these same massive models, packed with foot support technologies, are the foundation of stylish elite wear and streetwear icons.
About the project: Brutalism and the ABZORB system
For this project, Watanabe dug out the heavily engineered ABZORB 2010 model from the 00s archives. Instead of standard EVA foam, the sole is studded with cassettes featuring the flagship ABZORB system, which perfectly dissipates impact force. The sole with exposed, ribbed inserts resembles the foundation of a brutalist building.
However, the upper part of the shoe is a class of its own. CDG abandoned multicolored sports meshes. In their place, an incredibly densely woven breathable membrane combined with panels of matte, dark grey nubuck and velvety pigskin leather was introduced. The only brand reference is a discreet, embossed CDG HOMME logo on a leather patch on the tongue. The shoe pairs perfectly with thick socks and wide, wool trousers with a crease.
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